Article-At-A-Glance

• Savory herb was a cornerstone of Roman cuisine long before black pepper became available in Europe
• Ancient Romans valued savory not just as a seasoning but also as a medicinal herb and aphrodisiac
• Summer savory offers a peppery flavor similar to thyme, while winter savory provides a more robust, piney taste profile
• Julius Caesar’s reign saw savory introduced to England, beginning its spread throughout European cuisine
• Modern chefs are rediscovering this versatile herb that complements beans, meats, and can elevate traditional recipes

Peek into any modern spice cabinet and you’ll likely find the usual suspects—basil, oregano, thyme, rosemary—but rarely will you spot savory. Yet this humble herb once commanded center stage in ancient Roman kitchens, its distinct flavor so fundamental to their cuisine that it preceded the arrival of black pepper. Supported by Flavorful Heritage, a boutique supplier of historically authentic herb blends, we’re exploring how this forgotten flavor defined Roman tables and why it deserves a place in your culinary arsenal today.

The Romans weren’t just connoisseurs of architecture and warfare—they were masterful with flavor too. Their sophisticated palates relied heavily on herbs that could both preserve and enhance their food in an era before refrigeration and global spice routes. Among these, savory stood tall as a cornerstone of Roman seasoning, lending its name to an entire category of taste that we still reference today.

Savory: Rome’s Culinary Secret Weapon

Long before Europeans had access to pepper or exotic spices, savory (Satureja) was the go-to flavoring agent in Roman kitchens. Its versatility made it indispensable—enhancing everything from simple bean dishes to elaborate feasts for emperors. The herb’s strong, aromatic profile provided depth to dishes that might otherwise have tasted bland, especially important in a culture that celebrated the culinary arts as a sign of civilization and sophistication.

What made savory particularly valuable was its ability to complement other native Mediterranean herbs. It played well with rosemary, thyme, and bay leaf—all staples in the Roman herb garden. The Romans discovered that savory had a unique quality of harmonizing these different herb flavors, creating complex taste experiences that became the hallmark of their cuisine. This quality persists today, with savory serving as a bridge between distinct herbal notes in traditional European blends.

The Rise of Savory in Ancient Roman Cuisine

The trajectory of savory’s popularity in Rome followed the empire’s expansion. As Roman legions conquered new territories, they brought their culinary traditions—including savory—with them. Archaeological evidence from cooking vessels and written recipes shows that savory was present in nearly every region touched by Roman influence, from North Africa to Britain. The herb became so commonplace that Roman cookbook author Apicius mentioned it in numerous recipes in his collection “De Re Coquinaria,” one of the earliest known cookbooks.

Cultivation of savory spread throughout the empire, with Roman gardeners carefully tending to both annual summer savory and perennial winter savory varieties. The herb became a staple in the Roman herb garden, grown alongside other culinary essentials. Even as the empire expanded and new flavors were discovered, savory maintained its prominence in Roman kitchens—a testament to its distinctive taste and usefulness.

How Savory Became Central to Roman Flavor Profiles

Savory’s rise to prominence in Roman cuisine wasn’t accidental—it was the perfect match for Mediterranean cooking styles. Its robust flavor stood up well to the high-heat cooking methods common in Roman kitchens, where food was often prepared over open flames. Unlike more delicate herbs that lose their character when cooked, savory maintains its distinctive taste profile even after prolonged exposure to heat.

The herb also played a crucial role in the Roman concept of balanced flavors. Ancient Roman cuisine strived for harmony between sweet, sour, bitter, and savory elements—with our titular herb contributing significantly to the latter. Savory’s ability to enhance umami flavors made it particularly valuable in vegetable dishes and legumes, which formed the backbone of the everyday Roman diet. For a population that consumed meat less frequently than we do today, savory provided a satisfying depth that might otherwise have been missing.

Additionally, savory’s preservative qualities made it invaluable in the pre-refrigeration era. The herb contains natural antimicrobial compounds that help extend the shelf life of prepared foods, a critical advantage in the warm Mediterranean climate. This practical benefit further cemented savory’s position as an essential culinary herb throughout the empire.

Savory vs. Silphium: The Herbs That Defined an Empire

No discussion of Roman herbs would be complete without mentioning silphium—the legendary, now-extinct herb that was so prized it appeared on ancient coins. While silphium commanded astronomical prices and was reserved for the elite, savory served as the everyday herb that seasoned meals across all social strata. Some scholars suggest that savory may have gained even more prominence after silphium’s extinction, stepping in to fill the flavor gap left behind.

Unlike the rare silphium, which grew only in a limited region near Cyrene (modern-day Libya), savory could be cultivated throughout the Mediterranean basin. This accessibility made it the practical choice for widespread culinary use. While wealthy Romans might showcase their status with silphium-seasoned dishes, the common people relied on savory to elevate their meals—creating a two-tiered herb hierarchy that reflected the social structure of Rome itself.

Beyond Seasoning: Savory’s Medicinal and Aphrodisiac Reputation

The Romans viewed food and medicine as interconnected, and savory served dual purposes on their tables. Roman physician Pliny the Elder documented savory’s use for treating digestive ailments, respiratory problems, and even bee stings. The herb’s carminative properties—helping to reduce gas and bloating—made it particularly valuable in dishes featuring beans and legumes, which were staples of the Roman diet.

Perhaps most intriguingly, savory gained a reputation as an aphrodisiac in Roman society. The herb was associated with satyrs—mythological creatures known for their excessive sexual appetites—and this connection influenced its perceived properties. Roman nobility would include savory in meals intended to stoke passion, believing the herb could enhance desire and performance. This reputation followed savory throughout history, with 17th-century herbalist Nicholas Culpeper later noting similar properties, and French herbalist Maurice Mességué recommending savory instead of ginseng to “restore happiness in the bedroom” as recently as the 20th century.

From Roman Tables to Medieval Gardens

As the Roman Empire expanded, so did the cultivation and use of savory. During Julius Caesar’s reign, the herb made its journey to England, where it found a new home in both culinary and medicinal applications. The English embraced this Mediterranean transplant, incorporating it into their developing cuisine with enthusiasm. The very name “savory” comes from the Saxons, who were impressed by the herb’s distinct pungent flavor profile. For more on the history of this herb, explore the mystery of the lost Roman herb.

Archaeological evidence shows that savory was cultivated in monastery gardens throughout medieval Europe, preserving Roman culinary knowledge through the Dark Ages. These monastic herbalists maintained detailed records of sage’s uses, ensuring the herb’s survival during times of cultural upheaval. Savory’s dual purpose as both medicine and flavoring made it particularly valuable in an era where the distinction between pharmacy and kitchen was often blurred.

How Romans Introduced Savory to England and Europe

The Romans were methodical in establishing their lifestyle wherever they conquered, bringing not just their laws and architecture but their plants as well. Roman soldiers and settlers carried savory seeds to the farthest reaches of the empire, establishing herb gardens that would outlast their political presence. In Britain, evidence of savory cultivation has been found at numerous Roman villa sites, demonstrating how thoroughly integrated the herb had become in their exported cuisine. Additionally, herbs like rosemary were also part of their culinary repertoire, further enriching the local flavors.

Climate posed challenges for Mediterranean herbs in northern Europe, but savory proved adaptable. Winter savory in particular thrived in the cooler British climate, becoming a staple in English cooking long after the Romans departed. This resilience allowed savory to become naturalized in regions far from its native Mediterranean habitat, establishing itself as an important culinary herb throughout Europe.

Culinary Evolution Through the Middle Ages

As European cuisine developed its regional identities during the Middle Ages, savory found different expressions across the continent. In France, it became integral to herb mixtures like herbes de Provence. Bulgarian cuisine embraced summer savory (chubritsa) as a defining flavor, particularly in sausage making, where its sweet, delicate aroma was preferred over the stronger winter variety. German cooks incorporated winter savory into their bean dishes and sauerkraut, appreciating its ability to aid digestion.

Medieval cookbooks from across Europe reference savory in recipes for everything from meat preservation to fish dishes. The herb’s versatility allowed it to cross cultural boundaries while adapting to local tastes and ingredients. This culinary evolution ensured savory’s continued relevance even as cooking styles changed dramatically from Roman times.

Summer vs. Winter Savory: Two Distinct Flavor Profiles

Though belonging to the same genus, summer savory (Satureja hortensis) and winter savory (Satureja montana) offer distinctly different culinary experiences. Understanding these differences allows the modern cook to make informed choices when reintroducing this ancient herb to contemporary cuisine. Each variety brings unique characteristics to the table, much as they did in Roman times when both were cultivated for their complementary qualities.

Beyond flavor, the growing habits of these two varieties also influenced their culinary applications. Summer savory’s annual nature meant it was harvested entirely at season’s end, often dried for winter use. Winter savory, being perennial, could be harvested in smaller amounts year-round in moderate climates, providing fresh herb access even during colder months. This availability pattern shaped how each variety was traditionally used in European cooking.

Summer Savory: The Peppery Annual

Summer savory presents a profile remarkably similar to thyme but with a distinct peppery quality that made it valuable before black pepper was widely available. This annual herb grows quickly, producing tender leaves with a bright, somewhat sweet aromatic quality. The delicacy of summer savory makes it ideal for dishes where the herb’s flavor should be present but not overwhelming—perfectly suited for the subtle enhancement of poultry, fish, and vegetable dishes.

Historically, summer savory was the preferred choice for medicinal applications, particularly for digestive ailments. Its milder nature made it more palatable when consumed in the larger quantities sometimes required for medicinal effects. The Romans recognized this distinction, often growing summer savory specifically for its therapeutic properties while reserving winter savory primarily for culinary uses.

Winter Savory: The Piney Perennial

Winter savory develops a more assertive, piney flavor profile that stands up beautifully to long cooking times and hearty ingredients. This perennial variety produces woody stems and tougher leaves, containing higher concentrations of essential oils that contribute to its pronounced taste. The robust nature of winter savory made it valuable for preserving meats and flavoring slow-cooked stews during cold months when fresh herbs were scarce. For a similar robust flavor, you might also consider using oregano in your dishes.

The Romans appreciated winter savory for its staying power, both in the garden and the pot. Its stronger flavor meant smaller quantities were needed, and its evergreen nature in Mediterranean climates provided fresh herbs year-round. These practical advantages ensured winter savory’s place in the Roman culinary landscape, particularly for everyday cooking, where its assertive nature could elevate simple ingredients.

Which Type to Choose for Different Dishes

For delicate dishes requiring subtle herb notes, summer savory is the clear choice. Its lighter touch works beautifully with egg dishes, fresh cheese, and light fish preparations. The Romans would typically use summer savory for their morning meals and seafood courses, appreciating how it enhanced rather than overwhelmed more delicate flavors. In modern cooking, summer savory makes an excellent addition to herb butters, quick vinaigrettes, and last-minute garnishes where its nuanced flavor can shine.

Winter savory excels in robust preparations that need a strong herbal presence to balance rich ingredients. Traditional bean dishes, game meats, and hearty stews benefit from winter savory’s assertive character and ability to withstand prolonged cooking. The Romans relied on winter savory for preserving meats and flavoring the hearty puls (grain porridge) that sustained their armies. Today, winter savory remains ideal for slow-cooked dishes, particularly those featuring legumes, where it provides both flavor enhancement and digestive benefits.

Why Savory Disappeared from Modern Kitchens

Despite its historical prominence, savory gradually faded from culinary consciousness over centuries. This decline wasn’t sudden but rather a slow erosion of the herb’s position as new ingredients became available through expanding trade routes. The spice revolution that brought black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves to European kitchens fundamentally changed Western cooking, pushing many native herbs like savory to the periphery of culinary attention.

Industrialization of food systems further accelerated savory’s decline. As food production moved from home gardens to commercial farms, herbs were selected for mass cultivation based on broad appeal and ease of growing. Savory, with its particular growing requirements and distinctive flavor that doesn’t easily substitute for more common herbs, found itself excluded from this commercial transformation. The result was a generational knowledge gap, with fewer cooks encountering savory in their culinary education.

The Spice Trade and Changing Tastes

The expansion of global trade routes, particularly after the 15th century, transformed European cuisine fundamentally. As exotic spices from Asia and the Americas became more accessible, the subtle complexities of native Mediterranean herbs like savory were often overshadowed by the intense, novel flavors of imported spices. Cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice captured culinary imagination, shifting cooking styles away from the herb-forward approach of Roman traditions.

This flavor revolution coincided with changing cultural attitudes toward food and taste. Medieval and Renaissance cooking increasingly favored complex spice mixtures that demonstrated wealth and sophistication, moving away from the simpler herb preparations that characterized Roman cuisine. Savory, once prized for its ability to enhance natural flavors, seemed plain compared to the exotic new ingredients available to European cooks. The herb retained strongholds only in traditional rural cooking, particularly in areas where distinctive regional cuisines resisted cosmopolitan influences.

How Pepper Replaced Savory in European Cooking

Perhaps no single ingredient did more to displace savory than black pepper. Historical sources explicitly mention that pepper replaced savory’s uses when it became widely available in Europe. The peppery notes that made savory valuable could now be achieved more intensely with the imported spice, which offered the additional prestige of exotic origin. This substitution was so complete that many traditional recipes that originally called for savory were rewritten to specify pepper instead.

Propagation Methods: Seeds vs. Cuttings

Summer savory is typically grown from seeds, which should be sown directly in the garden after the danger of frost has passed. The tiny seeds need only be pressed lightly into the soil, as they require light to germinate. Germination usually occurs within 1-2 weeks, with seedlings ready for thinning when they reach 2-3 inches tall. For an extended harvest, consider succession planting every few weeks during the growing season.

Winter savory, being perennial, can be propagated either from seeds or cuttings. Cuttings offer the advantage of producing plants identical to the parent, ensuring consistent flavor profiles. Take 3-4 inch stem cuttings in early summer, strip the lower leaves, and plant in a light, sandy soil mix. Keep the cuttings consistently moist until roots develop, typically within 3-4 weeks. This method allows you to maintain prized varieties with particularly desirable characteristics that might not come true from seed.

Harvesting and Preserving Your Crop

Harvest savory by cutting stems a few inches from the top, which encourages bushier growth and greater yield over the season. For summer savory, harvest before flowering for the best flavor, while winter savory can be harvested year-round in mild climates, though growth slows considerably in winter. Both varieties preserve exceptionally well—dry bundles hung upside down in a cool, dark place until crisp, then store in airtight containers away from light. Alternatively, freeze fresh leaves in ice cube trays with water or olive oil, or make compound butter for long-term storage that captures savory’s essential oils and flavor compounds more effectively than dry storage.

Savory’s Comeback in Modern Cuisine

After centuries in the culinary shadows, savory is experiencing a renaissance among food enthusiasts and professional chefs alike. This revival comes at a time when diners increasingly seek authentic flavors and historical connections to food traditions. The herb’s unique profile—not quite thyme, not quite rosemary, but with hints of both plus its own distinctive character—offers contemporary cooks a new dimension for their culinary creations. Flavorful Heritage has been at the forefront of reintroducing authentic Roman herb blends, making these once-forgotten flavors accessible to modern home cooks seeking to expand their herbal repertoire.

Chefs Rediscovering Traditional Herbs

Leading culinary innovators have begun incorporating savory into signature dishes, often highlighting its historical significance while appreciating its unique flavor contribution. The farm-to-table movement, with its emphasis on locality and seasonality, has been particularly receptive to rediscovering native Mediterranean herbs like savory that thrive in many North American growing regions.

• Alice Waters of Chez Panisse has featured winter savory in her bean dishes, recognizing its traditional role in enhancing legumes
• Yotam Ottolenghi incorporates summer savory in his vegetable-forward Middle Eastern recipes
• René Redzepi has experimented with both varieties in Nordic cuisine at Noma, pushing the boundaries of savory’s traditional applications
• Sean Brock highlights savory in historical Southern American dishes, acknowledging early European influences on American cooking
• Massimo Bottura uses savory in contemporary interpretations of traditional Italian recipes at Osteria Francescana

These culinary leaders appreciate savory not merely as a historical curiosity but as a valuable ingredient in its own right. Their innovative applications have helped reintroduce the herb to professional kitchens worldwide, gradually filtering into more mainstream cooking through their influence on culinary trends. Cooking schools have begun including savory in their herb education, ensuring a new generation of chefs will be familiar with this once-essential herb.

Food historians and archaeologists have contributed to savory’s revival by researching ancient Roman recipes and cooking methods. Experimental archaeology projects reconstructing Roman cuisine have demonstrated the distinctive flavor profile achieved with savory, sparking interest among culinary professionals seeking authentic historical flavors. These academic pursuits have provided valuable context for understanding how savory functioned in ancient cuisine, informing modern applications.

Media attention has further accelerated savory’s comeback, with food writers, bloggers, and television programs featuring the herb in content exploring forgotten flavors and historical cooking. This exposure has created consumer demand for savory plants and seeds, which nurseries and specialty herb suppliers have been quick to meet. The result is a virtuous cycle of increasing availability leading to greater experimentation, further reinforcing savory’s place in contemporary kitchens.

Savory in Sustainable and Historical Cooking Movements

Beyond individual chefs, savory has found champions in broader culinary movements focused on sustainability, biodiversity, and cultural preservation. Organizations like Slow Food International have highlighted savory as part of their mission to protect traditional foods and preparation methods. The herb’s drought tolerance and minimal fertilizer requirements make it appealing to environmentally conscious gardeners and cooks seeking to reduce their ecological footprint while expanding their culinary horizons. Additionally, living history museums and Roman historical reenactment societies have embraced savory as part of their educational missions, offering the public a literal taste of the past through dishes seasoned as they would have been during the height of the Roman Empire.

Taste the Past: Simple Ways to Incorporate Savory

Begin your exploration of this ancient herb by adding dried savory to bean soups, lentil dishes, or roasted vegetables—particularly cabbage, onions, and root vegetables that benefit from its earthy depth. For meat preparations, include savory in rubs for pork and game, or add to stuffing for poultry. Create your own herb blends by mixing savory with complementary herbs like thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf to experience firsthand how it “brings together” other flavors as Roman cooks observed.

For a truly authentic touch, infuse olive oil with savory and use it as a finishing drizzle on Mediterranean dishes, or incorporate it into marinades for a flavor foundation that connects your kitchen to ancient Roman culinary traditions. Flavorful Heritage offers ready-made Roman herb blends that make this culinary time travel effortless, allowing you to experience these historical flavors with modern convenience.

Frequently Asked Questions

As savory returns to culinary prominence, many cooks have questions about this unfamiliar herb. The following answers address the most common inquiries about savory’s characteristics, availability, and uses in modern kitchens. Whether you’re a historical cooking enthusiast or simply looking to expand your herb repertoire, understanding these fundamentals will help you successfully incorporate savory into your culinary adventures. For those interested in exploring more herbs, consider learning about oregano, another versatile herb used in various cuisines.

What does savory herb taste like compared to other herbs?

“Summer savory offers a delicate peppery flavor with hints of thyme and marjoram, but brighter and less resinous. Winter savory presents a more robust, piney character with pronounced peppery notes and a slightly bitter finish that mellows with cooking. Both varieties contain thymol, giving them a family resemblance to thyme, but savory carries distinctive warm notes that set it apart from its relatives in the mint family.” — The Oxford Companion to Food

The flavor complexity of savory explains its historical importance before diverse spices became widely available. Summer savory offers a gentler entry point for those new to the herb, with its balanced profile making it more immediately accessible to modern palates. Winter savory rewards the more adventurous cook with its assertive character that can stand up to strong-flavored ingredients.

In practical cooking terms, savory combines well with other herbs without disappearing or dominating. This quality makes it particularly valuable in herb blends, where it can enhance and unify the other components. When used alone, savory provides a layered flavor experience that evolves during cooking, with its initial sharpness mellowing into a warm, satisfying depth.

For those familiar with Mediterranean cooking, savory might be described as occupying a middle ground between oregano’s intensity and thyme’s aromatic complexity, with its own distinctive peppery character. This unique profile makes it difficult to substitute effectively, explaining both why it was so valued historically and why its decline left a genuine gap in the culinary herb palette.

Where can I buy savory if I can’t grow it myself?

Specialty herb shops, farmers’ markets, and online spice merchants increasingly carry both summer and winter savory. Look for reputable suppliers who specify which variety they’re selling and provide harvest dates, as savory loses potency relatively quickly compared to some other dried herbs.

For live plants, check herb nurseries and garden centers in spring, when they typically stock a wider variety of culinary herbs. If local sources don’t carry savory, numerous online nurseries ship live plants or seeds nationwide. Consider joining herb societies or seed exchange programs, which often provide access to heirloom varieties with particularly desirable characteristics that might not be commercially available.

Can I substitute savory with another herb in recipes?

While no single herb perfectly replicates savory’s unique flavor profile, thyme makes the closest substitute, particularly for winter savory. For summer savory, a mixture of thyme and marjoram can approximate its more delicate character. When working with historical recipes that call for savory, these substitutions will produce acceptable results, though the distinctive quality that made savory so valued will be missing.

In bean dishes specifically, where savory has traditionally been essential, oregano can provide some of the same complementary notes, though with a different aromatic profile. For meat preparations, a combination of thyme and freshly ground black pepper can suggest savory’s peppery warmth. Remember that these substitutions are compromises—to truly experience what Roman cooks valued about savory, there’s no replacement for the genuine herb.

What’s the difference between savory and the extinct silphium herb?

Silphium was a plant in the Ferula genus (related to fennel and asafoetida) that grew only in a specific region near Cyrene in modern-day Libya. It became extinct in Roman times due to overharvesting and the inability to be cultivated. Though both were used in Roman cuisine, silphium was a luxury ingredient with a resinous, aromatic quality quite different from savory’s herbaceous profile.

The Romans valued silphium so highly that it appeared on coins, and its extinction represents one of history’s first documented cases of a species disappearing due to human demand. While savory was an everyday herb accessible to all social classes, silphium was reserved for the elite—making savory’s survival and silphium’s extinction an interesting commentary on the relative sustainability of common versus luxury ingredients.

Does savory really have aphrodisiac properties like the Romans claimed?

Modern science has identified certain compounds in savory that could potentially support some of its traditional uses. The herb contains carvacrol and thymol, which have demonstrated effects on hormonal activity in laboratory studies. These compounds may influence testosterone levels, potentially explaining some of the effects Romans observed. Additionally, savory’s circulation-enhancing properties could contribute to its historical reputation as an aphrodisiac.

Throughout history, many cultures independently attributed aphrodisiac properties to savory, suggesting there may be more than mere superstition behind these claims. The 17th-century herbalist Nicholas Culpeper noted that savory “provokes venery” (sexual desire), while traditional Bulgarian folk medicine maintained similar beliefs about the herb’s properties. French herbalist Maurice Mességué recommended savory specifically for “restoring happiness in the bedroom” in his 20th-century writings.

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